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The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright full ruby. Slightly stern aromas of cassis, graphite, licorice, incense and flowers. Then dense and penetrating, with terrific energy to the subtle dark fruit, licorice and mineral flavors. There’s a coolness to the fruit that makes this wine dramatically different from the Forts de Latour. Finishes with big, building tannins and a powerful sense…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 2006 Latour shows some reduction on the nose, although it soon blows away to reveal pencil-shaving infused black fruit, wild hedgerow and light cassis aromas. The palate offers up a mixture of red and black fruit. This has a firm grip with an uncompromising backbone. Dense yet refined, it is refreshingly saline toward the…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Medium ruby-red. Scented nose offers plum, mocha, licorice, graphite, flowers and tobacco. Suave, silky and fine-grained, with lovely inner-mouth aromatic character and energy. Perfumed flavors of redcurrant, minerals and cedar. Finishes very long and firm, with terrific grip for this mostly gentle vintage.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Pichon-Lalande has an attractive bouquet of raspberry, wild strawberry and light floral scents, although it is missing the mineralité and terroir expression of the best vintages (including the 2016 that I tasted alongside). The palate is rounded on the entry, with supple tannin, gentle grip and a note of licorice infusing the red…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium red. Aromatic nose of redcurrant, plum, tobacco, tar, toast and incense, with a faint weedy component. Silky on entry, then round in the mouth, but with limited sweetness and expansion of flavor. Not especially pliant today despite the relatively high 47% merlot component. Finishes with slightly dry-edged tannins. Not at the same level as…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 1994 Lafite-Rothschild is served from a large format whisked straight from the château. Perhaps that goes some way to explain the impressive showing. Very youthful in hue, it has a captivating bouquet with black fruit infused with cedar and melted tar, kind of old school but in a positive way. The palate is medium-bodied…