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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Mouton-Rothschild, which Philippe Dhalluin told me was harvested in one week, has a forward, showy bouquet with more upfront black fruit than the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild I tasted an hour earlier. Blackberry mixes with hints of star anise and light tobacco notes, conveying energy and fine delineation if not the profundity of the greatest…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full medium ruby. Currant, meat, mocha and grilled nuts on the nose. Lush, sweet and smooth, with just enough vinosity to maintain its balance. A vin de plaisir whose lovely fruit and sweet, harmonious tannins make it very easy to taste today (the chateau carried out a gentler, shorter extraction in ’99). But doesn’t have…

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

Dujac’s 2011 Morey St. Denis 1er Cru blossoms beautifully in the glass. Dark red cherry, plum, smoke and mint open up nicely in a supple, layered Burgundy with considerable near and medium-term appeal. This is a representative example of the vintage.

2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

Good medium red. Black raspberry and brown spices on the nose and palate. Savory, dry and energetic, with noteworthy intensity and spine. Finishes with lingering dark fruit flavors and excellent grip. A distinct step up from the village version.

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Pale, bright yellow. Pure, perfumed scents of white peach, anise, noble herbs and white pepper; the most classic of these ’16s on the nose. Then sappy and dense but weightless, displaying more pungency and cut than the Referts. Not a fleshy style but the fine-grained, fully ripe flavors of peach and hazelnut boast excellent punch…

1998 and 1997 Red Burgundies (Mar 2000)

Deep red. Very sweet, spicy aromas of cherry, raspberry, caramel and vanilla. Brighter and fresher in the mouth; shows the thickness of the vintage but with very good clarity of flavor. Firmly structured and long. This will go truffley with bottle aging.