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The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

The 2011 Chevalier-Montrachet comes across as a bit airy and ethereal at this stage. It will be interesting to see if the 2011 blossoms in bottle. Today, the Chevalier is intensely floral and subdued, with lovely nuances but not quite as much persistence as I had hoped. Hints of orange peel, jasmine and petrol inform…

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

(from white soil that produces fruit with a higher pH and lower acidity, according to Boudot): Good pale yellow. Ripe, highly perfumed nose combines pineapple, flowers, mint and humid fern. Less obviously powerful than the Batard but offers insidious intensity and a more pliant texture to its yellow fruit and mineral flavors. Tightens up considerably…

White Burgundy 2009 and 2008 (Sep 2010)

Very pale yellow-green color. Nose dominated by lime, crushed stone and steely minerality. Densely packed and almost painfully dry, with taut, penetrating citrus and mineral flavors showing more energy than flesh today. This ungiving grand cru has plenty of depth and flavor intensity but is an infant today. The stony, austere finish is like touching…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Ségla has a well-defined bouquet whose discreet rose petal and iris aromas lift the black cherry and blueberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and quite lively and spicy, leading into a slightly metallic finish, which I suspect will ebb with time. There is good length here. An elegant and quite…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Branaire-Ducru is rich, layered and sumptuous. Black cherry, licorice, spice, leather tobacco and tar build effortlessly in the glass. The 2019 impresses with its density and pure power, which makes it perhaps atypical for Branaire by its historic standards, but it may be the direction the château seems to be headed in. The…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Branaire-Ducru is one that I was eager to re-taste in bottle. Deep in color, it has a very well-defined nose of tightly packed dark berries, the tobacco element less obvious than before, and slightly more floral, with light sous-bois notes developing with aeration. The 60% new oak is neatly integrated. The palate shows…