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Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2015 Yquem has always been a vintage that I have approached with caution. It was a very early harvest that began on 3 September and finished on 21 October after temperatures fell during the picking. As usual, I have reservations about the nose that, for me, lacks the cohesion and complexity of the 2014….

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Bright medium red. Aromas of black cherry, red berries, iron and flowers hint at a liqueur-like ripeness. Dense, sweet and deep, but in a rather polite style for Chambertin, with its fruits and flowers to the fore. But this classy, beautifully balanced wine shows a weightless quality that is compelling.

Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 1999 Lafleur flies under the radar between the feted 1998 and 2000 vintages. However, it should not be under-estimated. It has a lucid deep color. The bouquet is not dissimilar to the previous bottle tasted in 2012, blessed with pure blackberry and briary scents, hints of gravel that render it not a million miles…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Red-ruby. Exotic, liqueur-like aromas of cherry, raspberry and five-spice powder. Offers terrific size and volume on entry, then a major wave of lush, fat fruit. Impressively ripe and mouthfilling for the vintage. Finishes very long and ripe, with big, palate-dusting tannins. One of the richest wines of the vintage.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good deep red. Red cherry, raspberry, oak spice, toffee, sweet butter and a hint of raisin on the nose. Silky and fruity, with lovely sweetness and firm supporting acidity, but rather closed at present. Finishes with fine but firm tannins and bright, lingering cherry flavor. Perhaps less expressive today than the ’97 but more…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2012 Grand Vintage is a very pretty, high-toned Champagne. Surprisingly nervous for this radiant vintage, the 2012 is going to need a bit of time to be at its best. Some of that may be attributable to early release of the 2012, which was bottled after only five years on its lees rather than…