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2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Haut-Brion Blanc is dense, powerful and explosive. Even so, I suspect it, like the other 2021 whites in the Clarence Dillon stable, is going through a closed phase. The textural richness and volume are evident, though. Slate, crushed rocks, citrus peel, white pepper and mint all come alive in the glass. Sauvignon Blanc…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Haut-Brion Blanc was very impressive from barrel. Now in bottle, it has a complex, finely delineated bouquet with dried white flowers and a touch of beeswax percolating through the green apple and Conference pear aromas. The palate is quite harmonious and tensile, full of energy and focused, with a dab of stem ginger…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Haut-Brion Blanc has a wonderful bouquet of white peach, yellow plum, kumquat and white flower scents that opens beautifully in the glass, displaying lovely definition. The palate is very well balanced with a killer line of acidity that perfectly counterbalances the intense citrus fruit. Razor-sharp, more than any vintage that I have tasted…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

A wine of tremendous stature and breed, the 2021 Haut-Brion Blanc possesses tremendous vertical energy allied to a feeling of structure that could easily be confused with that of a red wine. Lemon confit, marzipan, dried flowers and mint develop as the 2021 shows off its creaminess and breadth. The 2021 is an absolutely stunning…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Berliquet has a very attractive nose: a mélange of red and black fruit, cedar, clementine and light crushed stone scents that coheres nicely in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and very well-judged acidity, building gently in the mouth toward an elegant finish that does not overstay its welcome. This…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Berliquet was picked September 23 to October 5 at 30hL/ha, and matured in 44% new oak for a planned 16 months. Limpid purple in color. The nose is surprisingly concentrated given the growing season, offering crème de cassis and violet petal aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins that frame the…