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2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Reserve de La Comtesse is a delicious second wine. Soft, open-knit and caressing, the 2014 offers striking textural depth to balance its dark red/purplish fruit. Spice, tobacco, menthol and licorice wrap around the juicy, super-expressive finish. A burst of aromatic freshness gives the wine its sense of proportion. The Reserve de La Comtesse…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Deep ruby-red. Bright, enticing aromas of redcurrant, minerals and tobacco; not quite as ripe as the ’96. Lovely sweetness and clarity of flavor in the mouth. More supple than the ’96, and likely to be approachable much earlier. Finishes with substantial, tongue-coating tannins.

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Mouton-Rothschild can be variable from bottle to bottle. This example has an odd nose with a dab of wild mint. It just lacks a bit of class and feels clammed shut most of the time. The palate is medium-bodied, slightly chewy and has darker fruit compared directly with the 1989 Lafite-Rothschild. It coheres…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

Whereas the 1989 Mouton-Rothschild opened at 67 Pall Mall failed to pass muster, this bottle tasted four months later was outstanding, many voting it the standout wine of the 1989 dinner. It has a quintessential Pauillac nose that gains more and more complexity with aeration: blackberry, pencil shavings, and freshly rolled tobacco, all wrapped up…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good full, deep red. Sexy aromas of mocha, tobacco and milk chocolate, with a suggestion of roasted nuts. Suave, fine-grained and sappy, with lovely vinosity in the context of this heatwave vintage. Redcurrant and milk chocolate flavors linger impressively on the finish, which shows noteworthy energy and length, with sweet tannins. With its high percentage…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2002 Dom Pérignon is unforgettable. Rich, sumptuous and flamboyant to the core, the 2002 captures all of the radiance of a year in which ripeness in the Chardonnays was pushed to the edge. The 2002 is oily and viscous on the palate, with tremendous textural resonance in all of its dimensions. Tropical fruit, pastry…