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New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

Light gold. High-pitched aromas of lemon pith, quince and green apple, with complicating notes of smoky minerals and chamomile. Dry, nervy and very tight, with slow-to-open citrus and orchard fruit flavors and complicating notes of white pepper and buttered toast. Boasts excellent intensity and clarity but shuts down hard on the finish, which features strong…

Cellar Favorite: 2002 & 2004 Dom Pérignon (Dec 2022)

I remember the first time I tasted the 2002 Dom Pérignon with then-Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy at Hautvillers. It was the upcoming release at the time. As was his custom, Geoffroy served the 2002 in a flight that included a number of previous releases. The bouquet was immediately stunning for its audacity. I had…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 La Conseillante is a rich, heady Pomerol. Crème de cassis, lavender, chocolate, leather, espresso, licorice and sweet French oak infuse the 2005 with tremendous character. The 2005 is, naturally, a wine of its era. There is quite a bit of extraction and tannin, and yet the wine has aged impeccably. Time in the…

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 2005 La Conseillante is blessed with a truly fabulous, multi-faceted bouquet with layers of redcurrant and cranberry, rose petals, truffle oil, orange rind and hints of Dorset plum. The aromatics here are the most impressive…thus far. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin and a keen line of acidity, fresh and more saline in…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Bright, medium red-ruby. Superripe, complex aromas of kirsch, musky espresso, fruity dark chocolate, spices and game. Wonderfully lush, sweet, dense and ripe; in fact, atypically large-scaled (this is 13.7% alcohol) and full for La Conseillante but perfectly framed by harmonious acidity. The light meaty quality is buried in dark fruits on the palate. The spreading,…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Pale, bright yellow. Distinctly more soil-driven than the basic village Meursault, with its apple and spice flavors lifted by a calcaire element. A step up in intensity and spicy concentration as well, with apple and spice flavors framed by ripe acidity and enlivened by mineral verve. With less frost here, the estate made a bit…