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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1990 Duhart-Milon is a vintage I have not drunk for a long time. Served blind, it has a lovely nose of blackberry, singed leather, hung game and pencil shavings. The palate is fresh and well-balanced, disguising the warmth of the growing season with some style thanks to the perfectly judged acidity. Yes, a little…

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

A captivating mix of ripe plums, strawberries, cloves, violet pastille, balsam herbs and white smoke emanates from the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino. This is undeniably elegant in feel, showing a weight unexpected from a young Poggio di Sotto, yet working in perfect harmony, with tart cherries and wild berries drenching the palate in primary concentration,…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2015 Extra-Brut Grand Vintage is a terrific choice for drinking now, as it is so expressive. Baked apple tart, spice, lemon confit, marzipan and a hint of toastiness are front and center. Open-knit and engaging, the 2015 is a Champagne of pure and total pleasure.

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Vieux Château Certan was an early picking from August 31 after the Merlots reached 13% alcohol, then regarded as a high level. It shows modest brick on the rim. This vintage appears to have matured faster in recent years. Indeed, I have fonder memories of this in the noughties. Loose-knit red fruit, tea…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

Over a dozen or more bottles, the 1989 Vieux Château Certan has proved to be Alexandre Thienpont’s wine of the decade. This has a lovely bouquet with mulberry and cedar, a touch more mint than I recall and almost a pastille-like quality. That Earl Grey element develops with time. The palate is sweet on the…

Pages in the Photo Album: Vieux Château Certan 1928-2013 (Mar 2022)

The 1989 Vieux Château Certan has long been one of my favourite vintages of this era, although this is not the best example. The nose has more intensity than the 1990 with plenty of red fruit, melted tar, Earl Grey and light rose petal scents wafting from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with firm…