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Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

It has been several years since I last encountered the 1988 Léoville Barton. It is just a tad smudged on the nose compared to the 1988 Lynch Bages. Pencil box aromas mix with black fruit and a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. The palate has evolved in the interim period, grainier in texture than I…

Dom Ruinart at Cru, New York (Oct 2008)

Among the wines of the 1990s, I especially liked the 1993 Dom Ruinart, which was beautiful, especially considering this was an original disgorgement. Layers of honeyed fruit, licorice and mint were woven together in a captivating fabric. We also caught this wine at near peak, as it was firing on all cylinders. What a beautiful…

2003 Vintage Ports (Jan 2006)

Good saturated ruby. Raw, brooding nose dominated by crushed dark berries. Then dense, sweet, superripe and powerful, if a bit high in alcohol and unrefined. A big boy, with a strong chocolatey flavor and considerable finishing sweetness. This may well merit an outstanding rating with 15 years or so of cellaring. But I would not…

2003 Vintage Ports (Jan 2006)

Deep ruby. Brooding aromas of blackberry, black cherry, licorice and bitter chocolate. Broad, dense and deep, with compelling purity, lift and sweetness and captivating flavors of black cherry, dark chocolate and minerals. Finishes with broad, sweet tannins and superb chewiness and length. Has the structure and depth for extended cellaring.

2003 Vintage Ports (Jan 2006)

Full ruby. Knockout nose features black cherry, blackberry and licorice pastille. Rich and sappy on the palate, with a suave, velvety texture and unusual power for a young Dow. Flavors of kirsch, minerals and licorice are not at all overly sweet. In fact, this is ultimately quite taut, focused and powerful, with a very firm…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2009 Brane-Cantenac was picked from September 22 to October 9 with a modest 13.4° alcohol. This has long been a great Margaux. It is very delineated and yet very generous on the bravura bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, crushed stone, cedar and a touch of mint. The palate is fresh and bursting with energy right…