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New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)

Full copper-gold color. Initially restrained, brooding nose exploded with aeration, showing apple, orange, apricot, honey, iodine, smoke, hazelnut, macadamia and a suggestion of dry oloroso sherry. Dense, full, chewy and rich; an extraordinarily solid Champagne with an intriguing suggestion of Calvados. Broadens toward the back and goes on and on on the echoing aftertaste, with…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Léoville-Poyferré is blessed with a gorgeous, sensual bouquet with blueberry, cassis, violets and just a hint of cough candy soaring from the glass all with outstanding delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and quite a toasty, grippy finish. Here I can feel the alcohol more than…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Léoville-Poyferré has a very intense bouquet with blackberry, briary cedar and light estuarine/seaweed aromas that are very well defined. Pure class. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, layers of pure black fruit laced with pencil lead and a pinch of white pepper. It fans out wonderfully towards the finish, a Saint-Julien demonstrating…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good deep ruby-red. Blueberry, crushed cassis and graphite minerality on the youthfully medicinal nose. Plush, broad and deep, but with tangy acidity giving shape and lift to the dark berry and violet flavors. This spreads out to saturate every square millimeter of the palate. As dominated by its tannic structure as this is today, it’s…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(61% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 6% petit verdot and 3% cabernet franc; 3.7 pH; 14% alcohol) Opaque inky-purple. Fruit-driven aromas of plum jam, smoky black cherry and chocolate-covered blackcurrant. Then increasingly austere and tough on the palate, with black fruit flavors hidden beneath a thick coating of oak. The long finish features clove, vanilla and…

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 2010 Léoville-Poyferré takes the 2009 and ups the ante with brilliantly defined, intense black fruit. Perhaps it is just a little more “serious” compared to the previous vintage, but is finely chiseled and displaying more mineralité. The palate has mellowed since I last tasted it, developing more rondeur and a more caressing texture. Extremely…