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Once Upon a Time – Soldera Retrospective: 1977-2017 (Jun 2024)

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva comes across as a bit laid back relative to the 2001 and 2004 in this flight, but that is to be expected. Silky and perfumed at first, the 2006 has plenty of depth and overall structure, but those qualities are expressed in an understated manner. Time brings out the…

2017 & 2018 Napa Valley In Depth (Jan 2020)

A wine of tremendous breeding and pure stature, the 2016 Harlan Estate reaches dizzying heights of profound beauty. All the elements simply fall into place in an effortless, elegant Harlan Estate that really captures the essence of the year. Sweet tobacco, spice, menthol and mocha overtones give the 2016 beguiling aromatic presence to match its…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Valois is gorgeous. Bright Cabernet Franc inflections lend brightness and aromatic presence to a core of bright red berry fruit. This silky, mid-weight Pomerol is a charmer, that much is obvious. Sweet red cherry, mint, pipe tobacco and flowers linger.

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Château de Valois has a bold, quite menthol-tinged bouquet that gains intensity in the glass. The palate is well-balanced, with grippy, tarry black fruit, and nicely proportioned. There’s just the right amount of dryness on the finish to tempt you back.

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Saturated violet color. Smoke- and mineral-accented cherry and blackberry scents, along with exotic spice, violet and cracked pepper flourishes. Supple and expansive on the palate, offering appealingly sweet dark berry, kirsch and floral pastille flavors that are brightened by a spicy overtone. The spicy note carries through a long, smoky finish that shows fine clarity…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Clos du Clocher has a very pure and seductive bouquet of that blackberry and raspberry fruit that I picked out from barrel, but now with more floral elements: iris and touches of violet. The oak here is nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with layers of blackberry and bilberry. This has a fine…