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Château de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1985-2016 (Jun 2019)

(13.1% alcohol; 24 h/h; 9/22 harvest): Full medium red. Very rich, ripe aromas of dark cherry, plum and mocha, complicated by licorice and mint and a spiciness that builds with air; remains just this side of roasted. Displays terrific density and a captivating subtle sweetness on entry, then thick, rich and classically dry in the…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

Brilliant ruby-red color. Musky, superrich, slightly roasted aromas of black raspberry, mint and tropical dark chocolate. Hugely sweet and creamy in the mouth, but with sound acidity and a vineyard-typical minty element giving shape and lift to the chewy cherry and raspberry fruit flavors. This very deep Clos Vougeot finishes with big but late-arriving tannins…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has an attractive sea cave/oyster shell nose that opens nicely with aeration; very well defined, with plenty of intense black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, quite “solid” and maybe rather brutish at the moment, though it should soften with time.

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(60% Mazoyères and 40% Charmes, combined when the wine goes into barrel): Bright medium red. Brambly aromas of redcurrant, minerals and dried flowers. Tighter in the mouth than the premier crus here, showing less charm and early sweetness but noteworthy intensity and a firm shape. More minerals, dried flowers and earth than primary fruit. Charmes…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru was picked on September 12, four days prior to the Clos-de-Bèze. It offers more complexity and mineralité on the nose by comparison, featuring blackberry, raspberry and briar scents; rose petal and light bergamot notes emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet tannins on the entry. Quite sinewy for…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2003 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was showing well until around five years ago, but I wonder, based on this ex-cellar bottle, tasted blind at the château, if it is on a slippery slope? Glossy on the nose, obviously very ripe with a little more VA than previous examples, I just find it monotonous compared…