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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin La Perrière 1er Cru matures in 30% new oak and with 50% whole bunches (the domaine feels that more than this percentage is excessive.) The bouquet is medium-bodied with ripe tannin, plenty of red berry fruit mixed with hints of pain d’épices and touches of cassis. This is quite open on the…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru has a lot of volatility on the nose that obscures the black cherry fruit underneath that veil. Powerful but not appealing and it deteriorates after 10 minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with dry, “furry “tannins and dark berry fruit. A slightly desiccated, high alcohol finish…

2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Good medium-deep red. Ripe aromas of raspberry, licorice and smoked meat, with deeper-pitched soil tones adding nuance. Like liquid velvet in the mouth, conveying an impression of huge volume without heaviness. Not showing its treble notes now but this expands in the mouth and explodes on the palate-staining finish. Seems already to be going into…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru, which had finished its malo in late spring, was actually still quite reduced on the nose. The palate is well balanced, but the 30% new oak will need a few more weeks to become fully integrated. After the harmonious Les Tessons, this was quite difficult to get a…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a very strict, correct bouquet, the crushed rock and green apple scents slowly unfolding in the glass. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, and honeyed in texture, showing a quite a bit of creamy/vanilla-y oak to be subsumed on the finish. Afford it three or four years…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, matured with 50% whole bunch, has a well-defined bouquet of dark berry fruit, white pepper and light orange peel scents, becoming more mineral-driven with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a tart entry, fine grip and a saline, lightly spiced finish that conveys a sense of joy….