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2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Saturated deep ruby, one of the darkest of all the 2007s. Liqueur-like but vibrant nose offers deep aromas of cassis, licorice, minerals, tobacco, soy sauce and bitter chocolate. Dense, sweet, slightly high-toned and powerful but with a penetrating quality and superb energy driven by an impression of mineral salts. Really wonderfully sweet and dense wine,…

Champagnes Salon & Delamotte 1959-2007 (Jun 2016)

Delamotte’s 2007 Blanc de Blancs is deep, fleshy and seductive, with lovely textural depth and nuance throughout. The 2007 is a relatively soft, open-knit Delamotte that will drink well upon release. I especially admire the wine’s sense of balance and overall proportion, two of the many qualities that give the 2007 its considerable appeal.

2017 & 2018 Napa Valley In Depth (Jan 2020)

The 2016 Opus One is a wine of real breadth and power. Black cherry, plum, leather and spice flesh out effortlessly, but what stands out most is the wine's textural intensity and sheer power. Readers will have to wait a number of years until the 2016 is at its best, but it is clearly another…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Talbot might be one of the most underestimated wines of the Left Bank. This bottle was my own contribution and it outflanked some of the more expensive, better reputed Saint-Julien wines. Captivating on the nose, classical through and through, this is fresh and vibrant, a bit leaner than the Ducru-Beaucaillou though with more…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Lafite-Rothschild put in a great performance at this dinner. In fact, this bottle was better than one opened at the château in 2018. Stunning delineation, almost crystalline, with youthful, mineral-laden black fruit laced with truffle and allspice. Very complex. The palate is medium-bodied with finely woven tannins, perfect acidity and a real peacock’s…

The Judgement of Clapham Junction (Mar 2022)

The 2014 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru put in a strong showing. Taut and fresh, it has a perfumed nose with freshly baked popcorn, almond, mirabelle and jasmine that gain complexity with time. The palate is quite spicy on the entry, hints of apricot and wild peach blossom with a wonderfully-detailed and sustained finish. This is very…