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Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Cantemerle has a fruit-driven bouquet with opulent blackberry and blueberry fruit, certainly one of the most floral in the flight with pressed violets developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins, fleshy and rounded, though I am looking for more tension and precision on the finish. This is a…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Talbot is endowed with serious power and density, much of which it appears to have acquired during aging. Dark plum, lavender, new leather, spice and grilled herbs run through this decidedly potent Saint-Julien. Readers will have to give the 2015 at least a few years to shed some of its formidable tannins. In…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Talbot shows much better now than just a year ago. Here it has a much more intense bouquet than Gruaud Larose and Lagrange. Upfront blackberry and bilberry scents, cedar and subtle mint aromas lend complexity with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin on the entry, a fine bead…

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Limpid ruby. Spice- and smoke-accented red and dark berries, coconut, candied rose and a hint of cigar box on the fragrant nose. Bright and seamless on the palate, offering concentrated black raspberry, bitter cherry, spicecake and mocha flavors braced by a core of juicy acidity. Displays impressive finishing clarity, well-integrated tannins and lingering floral and…

Rioja Looks Back and Ahead (Feb 2019)

(aged for six years in American oak barrels and four years in bottle) Bright red. Vibrant, spice-tinged red currant and cherry aromas are complemented by suggestions of pipe tobacco, vanilla and incense, and a spicy nuance gains volume with air. Sweet and seamless on the palate, offering energetic red fruit and spicecake flavors that pick…

Spain’s New Releases, Part 2: Triumphs and Travails (May 2017)

(fermented in stainless steel tanks, followed by malolactic fermentation and two years of aging in a combination of French and American oak barrels; aged in bottle for three years before release) Deep, vivid red. Spicy, highly perfumed red currant, cherry and candied rose scents, along with suggestions of vanilla and woodsmoke that build in the…