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Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(60% cabernet sauvignon, 23% merlot, 15% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; 13.8% alcohol) Medium-deep ruby. Austere nose hints at red fruits, cassis, cedar and minerals. Soft and luscious on entry, then tighter and more linear in its saline black fruit and delicately herbal flavors. The fine tannins show a slightly bitter quality on the…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 d’Armailhac seems to be opening nicely on the nose with scents of raspberry, cranberry, brown spices and an underlying ferrous element. Good definition. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins and well judged acidity. This feels harmonious and smoother in texture than many of its peers, tobacco and black pepper towards the finish….

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good bright ruby-red. Complex, perfumed aromas of blueberry, boysenberry, smoke, mocha, spices and cedar. Sweet and plush in the mouth, with an enticing floral element and a whiff of orange peel lifting the blueberry, coffee, camphor and spice flavors. Fine-grained, concentrated, minerally Pauillac with suave, fully buffered tannins and excellent length and lingering perfume. And…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Healthy ruby-red. Sappy aromas of black raspberry, black plum, leather, meat and smoke. Lush and velvety in the mouth, with lovely sweetness. On the soft side for the vintage, but finishes with persistent black cherry flavor and ripe tannins.

Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982 (Apr 2024)

The 1952 Lafite-Rothschild has a straight-laced nose, like many Left Bank wines this vintage, “correct” and perhaps to some, “unexciting”. I quite admire its reserve and classicism. Dried rose petals and sandalwood mixed with raspberry unfold with aeration. The palate is well balanced, with a graceful build in the mouth and a hint of allspice…

In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

The 2009 Flaccianello is gorgeous, but the relative shortcomings of the year relative to the sublime 2010 are apparent when the wines are tasted side by side. Firm tannins support a core of dark red fruit, smoke and crushed flowers. Readers will need to give the 2009 time to settle down, but it is unquestionably…