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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good red-ruby. Full-blown aromas of currant, black cherry, roasted meat, lead pencil and leather. Fat, rich and compellingly sweet, with suggestions of tobacco and meat. Finishes with very fine tannins that coat the teeth. Seems quite accessible already, but certainly has enough freshness to evolve in bottle over the next decade or more.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Lynch Bages has a precocious bouquet with bold, perhaps slightly monolithic licorice-infused black fruit, touches of camphor and pencil shavings that emerge with time. The palate is dense and powerful with weighty, slightly glossy black fruit. Not a complex Lynch-Bages, it is missing a bit of freshness and tension that urges you back…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2003 Lynch-Bages has a rich and forward nose with licorice-infused black fruit, black plum and melted tar. This is very concentrated with sweet black fruit, cedar and mint, but it feels a little heavy in the mouth and is missing some complexity and freshness on the finish. A bit labored compared to coeval vintages?…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Gruaud Larose is a vintage that I have only tasted once before, just after bottling. It has a deep, slightly turbid core with just a thin line of bricking on the rim. The nose is a little simple compared to other vintages, but it is undeniably charming with blackberry, sandalwood and a discrete…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Moderately saturated ruby-red. Explosive aromas of plum, blackberry, tar, cocoa and grilled bread. Sweet and generous but a bit disjointed at the moment. Possesses strong, nicely delineated fruit but seems a bit less stuffed and structured than the ’99.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Figeac, now at 20 years old, was a vintage that was affected by the hailstorm during the summer. This bottle is more open than the magnum poured at the vertical in 2015, but the aromatic profile is the same with rustic red berry fruit, ferrous notes and just a touch of juniper berry….