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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.5% alcohol; from what Clavelier describes as soft calcaire): Bright medium red. Very complex, soil-driven aromas of raspberry, cherry, flint, fig, peony and rose petal. Not at all an austere style of Corton, conveying a fine-grained texture and an element of wildness to its red fruit and peony flavors. The plushest, sweetest and most voluminous…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Richebourg Grand Cru has a drop-dead gorgeous bouquet: so pure, so refined, so delineated! The scents are not powerful or ostentatious, but they unfold with each swirl of the glass, revealing astonishing mineralité. The palate is extraordinarily well defined. There is a patina of new oak to be subsumed, but it is still…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Richebourg Grand Cru is not as immediate as Thibault Liger-Belair’s Richebourg and for a fleeting moment it comes across as a bit disjointed. It only needs a bit of rigorous swirling for it to coalesce into something much more enticing: red plum, crushed strawberry, warm gravel and just a light Cuban cigar scent….

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain 1er Cru comes from a single parcel next to Domaine de la Vougeraie. It is missing a little precision on the nose at the moment, the smudged brioche aromas occluding the terroir. The well-balanced palate delivers a fine bead of acidity and a light saline touch toward the finish, but…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is the most opulent of the four tasted from this vineyard, ravishing dark cherries, raspberry and cranberry scents, touches of tobacco and humidor. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, real structure and density, still quite oaky with a creamy texture though that will be subsumed with time. A…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru offers blackberry, briar and crushed stone aromas on the nose, which is nicely focused but not powerful. The palate is built around chalky tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Very focused and fresh, with an almost sorbet-like finish. Roumier said this was the first to…