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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Light gold color. Textbook Bollinger aromas of toast, lees and buttered toast, along with suggestions of fresh mushroom and white truffle. This is really about earthy tones, not fruit. Thick and fat to the point of being oily in texture, with deeply pitched sweet cream and butter tones and a slow-to-unfold singed pineapple flavor. For…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

(aged in 35% new oak): Good deep red-ruby. Black plum, black cherry and chocolate on the nose. Superrich and sweet; a real fruit bomb of dark cherry and raspberry, but a firm spine of acids and tannins keeps it lively on the palate. Complicating notes of licorice, bitter chocolate and flowers. The almost glyceral impression…

Alsace 1998 and 1997 (Jul 1999)

Ripe but tangy aromas of lime, orange peel, mint and chalk. Penetrating, hard-edged lime and orange zest flavors; a low-fat wine enlivened by electric acidity. With its strong impression of malic acidity, this is a perfect example of the 1996 vintage: there virtually nothing like this wine in either ’97 or ’98. A wine of…

Vertical Tasting of Trimbach’s Riesling Frederic Emile (Sep 2013)

(7.2 g/l total acidity; 3.1 pH; 4.2 g/l residual sugar): Medium straw. Forward aromas of yellow peach, baked apple and licorice. Easygoing, soft flavors of peach and apple appear to be less sharply defined than usual for this wine, but linger persistently on the rather diffuse finish. A honeyed minerality emerged with aeration, adding to…

Alsace 1998 and 1997 (Jul 1999)

Subdued but deep aromas of white flowers and lime. Dry (just three grams per liter r.s.), deep and impressively structured. Slow to evolve but already long on personality. Very densely packed and deep. This should develop in bottle for many years. Very long, adamantly dry finish. Jean Trimbach considers this a great vintage for the…

New Releases from Napa Valley: 2012 and 2013 (Dec 2014)

The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon 40th Anniversary from Caymus hits the palate with a rush of dark cherry, plum, Coke, chocolate, brandy, spices and sweet new oak. There is good texture, viscosity and immediacy to the fruit at first, but the sickly sweet new oak and vanillin become overpowering soon after, totally covering the fruit and…