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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Cos d’Estournel has a well-defined bouquet that takes a few swirls of the glass to get going. It is not complex or vigorous, yet nicely detailed. Melted tar and cigar humidor infuse the black fruit, becoming earthier with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity. This feels quite masculine…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Red-ruby. Wild aromas of redcurrant, minerals, leather, gunflint and game; developing faster than either of the more recent vintages are likely to do. A wine of modest density and fat, and currently rather austere, but possesses very good vinosity and length. Tannins are slightly dry but fine.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I have not tasted since 2009, when I was smitten by its Burgundian texture and fleshy finish. Ten years on, this bottle is disappointing. The sweet, almost prune-like nose caught me completely by surprise. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and low acidity. This is a “big-boned”…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium red. Aromas of black cherry, minerals and graphite. Sweet and harmonious, with impressive vivacity and purity of flavor for ’99. Strong mineral and graphite notes contribute complexity. Not overly fleshy but fresh and sharply delineated, with excellent intensity. A very sophisticated wine, showing well today.

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1999 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I have found perplexing in the past, and the last time I was unable to give a score. Returning again, I find the nose a little diluted with light black fruit, a touch of brine and sea salt, but oddly it reminds me of the 2013. The palate…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1989 Ducru-Beaucaillou has been a more consistent performer compared to the 1990 over the years. It has an open, leafy bouquet with forest floor, morels, truffle and smoke, not complex and with brettanomyces becoming evident. The palate is medium-bodied with sour cherry and quite dry tannins. There is decent body here, although there is…