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Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 1983 Climens has a lucid golden colour. The bouquet is initially backward and finally offers attractive scents of freshly sliced mango, quince and lanolin. Very complex. The palate is powerful and concentrated with effervescent fruit: Seville orange, apricot and mango with a nice bitter edge on the finish. Great length with hints of marmalade…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Beaune Clos du Roi 1er Cru I includes 50% whole bunch and 30% new oak. Pascal Marchand said that this is an example of “infusion” winemaking, not seeing many punchdowns during cuvaison. The bouquet is very perfumed; cracked black pepper and tertiary aromas slightly occlude the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Les Chalandins has a perfumed and attractive bouquet that gains complexity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy and ripe with a fine bead of acidity towards the finish. Silky smooth and long, this is recommended.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Rully Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru comes from the domaine’s monopole, a hectare planted in 1952 located next to woods, ploughed twice a year and then tended by hand. The vines here are sensitive to both frost and heat. It is matured in five- or six-year-old barrels with just 10% new. It has a…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Bourgogne Blanc has a fresh, slightly candied bouquet with orange blossom and discrete nectarine aromas. The palate is balanced with a pithy opening, slightly lower in acidity than other vintages with a light spiciness towards the finish. Fine.

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

One of the more powerful wines for the year, the 2014 Ducru-Beaucaillou surprises with its sheer concentration. A blast of dark cherry, crème de cassis, mocha, spice and chocolate makes a strong opening statement. Super-ripe, voluptuous and opulent, the wine possesses off-the-charts depth and richness. Ducru remains the most opulent and flamboyant of the 2014…