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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.5% alcohol; vinified with 60% whole clusters): Bright dark red. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, blueberry, minerals and musky earth. Wonderfully silky, plush and fine-grained, with its atypical fat nicely leavened by smoky, crunchy minerality. I find this wonderfully rich Les Amoureuses gentler in the early going than the Bonnes-Mares but it may need just…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is showing more oak on the nose compared to Bruno Clair’s Bonnes-Mares tasted alongside, although there is clearly sufficient fruit behind to support it: blackberry, blueberry and a touch of boysenberry. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit laced with black tea and a touch of iodine, then a…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(the crop level averaged just 26.5 hectoliters per hectare but Roumier had frost issues only in his vines closer to the village of Chambolle, with one of his northern plots–on red soil–yielding 40 h/h): Bright medium red. Sexy, slightly high-toned aromas of raspberry, mocha and minerals; but a bit less floral than usual at this…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a beautifully defined nose, fresh as a daisy, yet unapologetically primal, requiring another 10-15 years to display its terroir. Everything is here on the palate: fine-boned tannins, layers of dark cherry and cassis fruit with underlying raspberry notes. It feels finely chiseled with just the right amount of opulence…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a natural, open-knit bouquet of red cherries and wild strawberry, plus a hint of balsamic in the background. It feels a little higher-toned than Bruno Clair’s Bonnes-Mares, and that becomes more evident with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied, robust and solid, with a slightly chewy entry and good depth,…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru is very perfumed on the nose with greater fruit intensity than Mugnier’s Amoureuses, whilst maintaining satisfying delineation. This unfurls wonderfully in the glass, certainly one of the more opulent Amoureuses. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, quite layered and grippy, bold in terms of structure with…