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Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2008 Vintage is an infant. Tightly wound and vibrant, the 2008 still needs time. Today, bright acids dominate. I wouldn’t dream of touching this anytime soon, as the 2008 remains embryonic, although from time to time the barest hints of signature Krug notes peek out from the wine’s structure. Vibrant saline notes and sculpted…

New Releases from Australia, Part 1 (Jul 2007)

Deep ruby. Powerful raspberry and cassis on the nose, with exotic Asian spice and floral oil accents. Liqueur-like dark berry flavors are impressively poised on a silky, midweight frame, with gentle tannins building on the back. Takes a turn to bitter cherry on the long, juicy finish, with the sexy spice notes repeating.

New Releases from Australia, Part 2 (Sep 2008)

Opaque ruby. Youthfully brooding nose reluctantly displays red and dark berries, licorice and Indian spices; a sexy floral quality gains strength with air and carries onto the palate. Sweet raspberry and blackcurrant flavors are framed by silky tannins and offer excellent palate coverage and energy. The floral note echoes on the long, spicy finish, which…

Dinner at Home (Mar 2008)

The 1985 Krug was delicate, perfumed and lithe on the palate, with superb freshness and a more compact frame than the 1988. I came back to it often and never failed to be seduced by its mesmerizing personality. The 1988 Krug was decidedly more intense and full-bodied. It had everything; gorgeous fruit, acidity, texture and…

2014 Germany: Riesling Resists Rain on the Rhine (May 2016)

This is dominated by the juicy flesh of grapefruit white peach and apple more than by their rinds or pips. To be sure, there is prominent piquancy, but of a subtly toasty, nutty, sesame seed sort; and when cyanic pip notes do emerge, in the finish, it is with an impressively glowing intensity that perfectly…

Hungary’s 21st-Century Tokajis (Jun 2014)

Full orange-bronze. Pours thick. Distinctly old-style aromas of dried apricot, nut oil, molasses, hazelnut, smoke, toffee, walnut and truffle. Thick and hugely sweet, with powerful acidity and an orange marmalade quality enlivening the creamy, saline apricot, nut and earth flavors. Plenty of supersweet honeyed botrytis here. (An earlier bottle showed honeyed botrytis tones and huge…