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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Deep red. Very ripe aromas of cherry, strawberry, licorice, smoke and mocha. Sweet, plush and seamless, with terrific concentration to the red fruit and mineral flavors. This wonderfully round 2007 saturates the entire palate without leaving any impression of heaviness. The wine’s superripe finishing flavors of dark berries are leavened by excellent mineral lift. A…

Barolo 2007: Greatness in the Making (Feb 2011)

The 2007 Barolo Margheria was raised in cask and reveals a slightly more classic side of Nebbiolo. Sweet floral herbs, tobacco, geranium and wild flowers emerge from the bouquet. The firm yet well-integrated tannins frame a core of fruit loaded with Serralunga character, leading to a wiry, muscular finish. Hints of leather, licorice and iron…

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2011)

(93% cabernet sauvignon, 6% petit verdot and 1% cabernet franc): Good bright red-ruby. Musky aromas of black raspberry, redcurrant, tobacco, menthol and herbs. Offers a light touch to its dark fruit and herbal flavors but comes across as tight today, and not yet showing much pliancy or sweetness. In a cool, minty style but this…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Ruby-red. Sexy nose offers superripe currant, raspberry, graphite and coconut. Lush, very rich and fine-grained, with an almost confectionery sweetness and thickness for this St. Julien. Atypically powerful on the back end, but not hard. Bruno Borie took over direction of this property with the 2003 and immediately switched to a heavier bottle with a…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2003 Ducru-Beaucaillou, picked 15-25 September and matured in 90% new oak, has a ripe and opulent bouquet with lavish black fruit, fresh fig, dates and a touch of liquorice, though here is no sense of over-maturity here. It is fresher than a lot of ‘03s that I have recently tasted. The palate is well…

Interpreting Chenin Blanc (Mar 2021)

There are so many things to praise in the 2018 Clos du Papillon: the suave, sumptuous texture, the high level of concentration, the very ripe apple and pear fruit meeting subtle pastry notes. It’s seductive while offering some welcome grip on the finish, but it just trips at the last hurdle, the 14.5% alcohol giving…