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Vintage Retrospective: The 2001 Napa Valley Cabernets (Jun 2020)

Deep medium ruby with no sign of development. Musky aromas of blackberry, blueberry, soy sauce and licorice; almost liqueur-like. Huge, savory and utterly silky on entry, then plush and superconcentrated in the middle palate, boasting blackberry, licorice and mineral flavors of incredible intensity and penetrating sweetness. Utterly palate-staining in its breadth. Leaves the palate vibrating…

Harlan Estate Vertical at The Naples Winter Wine Festival (Sep 2017)

One of the highlights in this tasting, the 2001 Harlan Estate is simply majestic. Powerful, explosive and dense, the 2001 soars out of the glass with an exotic mélange of aromas, flavors and textures that grabs hold of all the senses. The 2001 is an especially virile, potent Harlan Estate that will drink well for…

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2011)

(69% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot, 11% cabernet franc and 7% petit verdot): Saturated ruby. Blackberry, spices and graphite on the nose. Broad and rich but also magically airy in the mouth, with compelling perfume to the dark fruit and mineral flavors. A very dark, deep, young wine with terrific finishing grip. Here, too, the substantial…

Vintage Retrospective: The 2008 Napa Valley Cabernets (May 2018)

(16.1% alcohol): Dark red-ruby. Aromas of plum, licorice, minerals and wild herbs, plus a whiff of spun sugar. In a distinctly plush, creamy-sweet style, conveying an opulent dried-fruit character complicated by a faint leathery quality. Not the last word in complexity but finishes with very smooth tannins and excellent length. This wine is carrying just…

Focus on the Central Coast (Nov 2010)

(16.2% alcohol) Glass-staining purple. Blackberry, boysenberry and licorice pastille on the nose, with mounting spice and floral notes and a strong wallop of cracked pepper. Deeply pitched black and blue fruit flavors expand with air and pick up strong spicecake and candied flower notes, along with velvety tannins. More backward than the Lorraine today, and…

The Best of Sonoma (Feb 2012)

The 2009 Chardonnay Reuling Vineyard is the biggest and richest of these 2009 Chardonnays. Pastry crust, spices, tangerine and dried apricot are all woven together beautifully in this large-scaled, expressive Chardonnay. Aubert used 100% new barrels here, which comes through ever so slightly in the texture of the fruit. An exuberant, explosive finish rounds things…