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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good bright deep red. Highly nuanced, fresh aromas of cherry, minerals, tobacco, herbs and spices. Sweet and fat but lively, with a fine-grained texture and superb inner-mouth energy and depth for the vintage. Finishes with suave tannins and mounting flavors of dark berries, spices, herbs and smoked meat. The pH here is 3.65, which winemaker…

2004 Barolo: The Cream Rises to The Top (May 2015)

Marcarini’s 2004 Barolo Brunate has aged well, but it hasn’t really blossomed into a truly special wine, as so many Barolos from this vintage have. If opened now, the 2004 needs a few hours of air for the tannins to soften. The lifted, slightly fleeting, ethereal finish is classic La Serra.

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Good medium red with an amber edge. Distinctly backward nose hints at dark raspberry and menthol; much less showy today than La Serra. Then rich, chewy, sweet and dense in the mouth, with bound-up flavors of dark fruits and camphor. Considerably deeper and more structured than La Serra, but these tannins will also require substantial…

Rheinhessen 2017: Perseverance Rewarded (Jul 2019)

Red and black currants are accented by coriander seed and marine mineral notes on the nose. Purity and tenderness of fruit reign midpalate, along with a subtle but seductively silken texture, yet without sacrificing bright, invigoratingly seed-tinged juiciness. Bittersweet iris and gentian perfume adds to the wine’s alluring complexity. The impressively sustained finish delivers striking…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(picked at 12.9% potential alcohol and chaptalized to 13.1%, which Benoit Stehly described as typical for the vintage): Good medium red; darker than the village wines. Inviting ripe perfume of cherry, raspberry, dried flowers and crushed rock. A step up in silky ripeness from the estate’s village wines, but also offering lovely inner-mouth energy and…

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Glass-staining ruby. Spicy cherry pit and blackcurrant aromas are complicated by notes of star anise and violet, with a touch of smokiness building in the glass. Fleshy and gently sweet, with ripe cassis and blueberry flavors complemented by deeper-pitched suggestions of licorice and bitter chocolate. Shows very good clarity and lift on the finish, which…