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Le Miracle de Haut-Brion (Dec 2014)

A modern-day version of the epic 1959, the 1989 Haut-Brion is all about harmony. Fine, silky tannins and expressive aromatics are two of the signatures. Tobacco, cedar and anise add layers of nuance to the dark, mineral-inflected fruit. The 1989 has long been one of my favorite Haut-Brions. It is once again magnificent in this…

2018 Dining & Drinking Memories (Jan 2019)

I’ve been following this wine since I first tasted it from barrel in the summer of 1990, and it has always been an amazing wine and one of the best examples of this remarkable vintage. This particular bottle, which I helped to drink alongside a superb, dry-aged prime porterhouse at one of the New York…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Haut-Brion remains one of the outstanding achievements of the decade, and it consistently flirts with perfection. I was fortunate to taste the wine three times over the space of six months, though this tasting note comes from a bottle poured at the château by Jean-Philippe Delmas – the first time I had ever…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium red. Highly nuanced, roasted aroma dominated by tobacco, grilled nuts, smoke and vanillin oak. Densely packed, but also juicy and penetrating, with great thrust and superb vinosity. A very powerful wine with a robust tannic structure. Finishes very long and strong. This and La Mission really transcend the vintage. Drink 2005 through 2030.

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The bottle of 1989 Haut-Brion poured in Hong Kong is unquestionably the best I have encountered in recent years. Youthful in hue, it has a breathtaking bouquet with stunning definition, a mixture of shimmering black fruit, crushed stone, black truffle and graphite. The palate is multi-faceted with unerring complexity, yet the freshness, frisson and energy…

Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 2004 Masseto, one of my personal favorites, is positively stellar. I have always adored the 2004 for its silky tannins, stunning aromatic presence and total finesse, all of which are on display today. Beautifully pure to the long finish and profoundly beautiful in every way, the 2004 has it all. It was a textbook…