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2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Bright yellow. Fascinating aromas of vineyard peach, fresh apricot and Chartreuse-like herbal infusion, plus a hint of kerosene. Very rich and fine-grained, with a captivating orange zest coolness accented by white pepper. There’s something Riesling-like about this wine’s impression of sucrosité without actual sugar. Almost oily on the aftertaste but enlivened by emerging minerality. Rich…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(2016 is the first time Saouma has been able to offer this wine–because so many growers had one barrel of it in 2016 and didn’t know what to do with it): Quite subdued–even stunted–on the nose, with a trace of lactic acidity from the late malo. Still, this is more suave and sweet than the…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright, dark red. Less purely black on the nose than the Epenots, showing enticing spicy lift to its raspberry and mint aromas. At once sweet and brisk in the mouth, with its red berry flavors complicated by notes of honeysuckle and citrus fruits. This penetrating, energetic wine boasts a tight core of fruit and terrific…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Moderately saturated medium red. Pungent aromas of cherry, raspberry, strawberry, spices, rose petal, mocha and crushed stone; this Pommard has Chambolle-like vibrancy. Wonderfully silky and suave on the palate, with dark cherry, chocolate and dried rose flavors lifted by chalky energy. Offers a compelling combination of sweet and saline elements and finishes with refined tannins…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(almost finished with its sugar fermentation; Saouma told me that this wine still had 15 grams of residual sugar during the 2017 harvest): Bright but slightly cloudy yellow. Slightly oxidative on the nose, as it’s still working. Then shockingly ripe and fresh on the palate, with a touch of sweetness virtually neutralized by penetrating appley…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Bright light yellow. Aromas of peach, fresh apricot and medicinal herbs show a sweet-sour quality that reminded me of some Chinese dishes. Very pure, juicy and penetrating; doesn’t show the body, density or ripeness of the Charmes but this is a compellingly energetic, intense Gouttes d’Or with sneaky power. Finishes very long and suave, with…