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Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2010 Brut Millésimé Amour de Deutz is a hard wine to taste, as the aromatics are unfocused and muddled to the point of making the wine unenjoyable. The shortcomings of this challenging harvest are impossible to escape.

1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)

Full ruby-red. Penetrating aromas of blackcurrant, black cherry, dark chocolate, minerals and red licorice, plus a whiff of old barrel. Juicy and penetrating but quite tightly wrapped. A wine of finesse rather than weight, but with subtle power as well. Finishes with chewy, chocolatey tannins and very good length. This will get dry if it…

2010 and 2009 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2012)

Deep ruby. Potent aromas of dark berries and cherry, with a strong mineral element and notes of licorice and black tea. In a brooding style, with intense, mineral-accented bitter cherry and blackberry flavors. Dusty tannins add grip to the firm, spicy, very persistent finish. I suspect that a few more years of bottle age will…

Tuscany: New Releases from the Coast (Jul 2022)

The 2020 Cont’Ugo, 100% Merlot, is rich, pliant and super-expressive. A blast of dark fruit, chocolate, new leather and licorice are front and center. There’s a bit less of the bombastic intensity of the early years, but that’s not a bad thing at all. Quite the contrary.

Exploring the Santa Cruz Mountains (Oct 2019)

One of the highlights in this tasting, the 2016 Monte Bello has turned out just as beautifully as I hoped it would. Soaring aromatics, bright acids and mid-weight structure give the 2016 a super-classic feel. Clearly, the 2016 is very primary today, with plenty of bright red and purplish berry fruit. More than that, though,…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 2009 Latour has an open and generous bouquet: a mixture of red and black fruit and touches of graphite and loam. This vintage displays a light marine/brine influence. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, a firm grip and superb balance. This is very focused, with impressive salinity on…