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Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Montlandrie was picked September 18–25 and matured in 40% new oak. It has an exuberant, ripe bouquet, a mixture of red and blueberry fruit, crushed violets and potpourri aromas surfacing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, sweet and sensual, although I find less complexity on the finish compared directly with…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Montlandrie, the Durantou family’s Côtes de Castillon, is fabulous. It is another very serious wine in this range. A core of dark Merlot fruit gradually opens, releasing complicating notes of spice, leather, incense and licorice. There’s real depth and gravitas. A few years in the cellar seem prudent, as there is a lot…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Montlandrie is one of the more showy wines from the Durantou’s this vintage. It is quite plush and sensual with scents of crème de cassis, crushed violet and a hint of star anis. Nicely defined, though their Lalande-de-Pomerols demonstrate a little more class. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fleshy and generous,…

2005 and 2004 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2007)

Ruby-red. Powerful, brooding blackberry and creme de cassis aromas are further deepened by suggestions of dark chocolate, espresso and tar. Huge, mouthfilling and sweet, with an amazingly dense texture and superconcentrated kirsch and blackcurrant flavors complemented by baking spices and smoked meat. The impressively long finish shows great depth and powerful tannic spine. Hands off…

2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

Dee p, saturated ruby. Knockout nose combines black fruits, gunflint, iron, licorice and brown spices. Like liquid velvet in the mouth, with wild flavors of blackberry, black cherry, roast coffee, licorice and gunflint. Extremely dense and concentrated, finishing with great aromatic persistence.

The 2013 and 2012 Northern Rhône Wines (Feb 2015)

Inky ruby. Heady, seductively perfumed aromas of dark berry liqueur, candied flowers, smoky minerals and olive paste. Sweet, palate-staining blackberry and violet pastille flavors are lifted and sharpened by juicy acidity and a hint of white pepper. Very rich but lively as well, finishing with strong back-end cut. Shows real power on the strikingly long…