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Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Grand Puy Lacoste was picked from September 24 to October 8 at 40hL/ha, and matured in 75% new oak. There is quite a conspicuous gap between this and the Deuxième Vin this year, the Grand Vin delivering much more cohesion and fruit intensity: blackberry, tobacco, mahogany bureau and a touch of sage. The…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Grand-Puy-Lacoste is fabulous. Bright and punchy, with terrific aromatic presence, the 2021 is a terrific example of the modern classicism of the year at its best. It’s the sort of wine that needs years or maybe even decades to truly blossom, and yet all the requisites are there for that to happen. There…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Alter Ego is phenomenal. Bright acids and lifted floral top notes give the Alter Ego terrific brilliance. The combination of the growing season and a move towards foudres for the second year of élevage yields an Alter Ego that is decidedly linear in construction. The 2020 is going to need a number of…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Alter Ego de Palmer has a tightly-wound bouquet that demands a little more coaxing than other Margaux’s that I tasted. Quite refined with black cherries, blackcurrant, iris flower and light iodine scents. Lovely definition. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fresh on the entry and quite saline, not as flamboyant as you…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Alter Ego is very pure on the nose, almost Burgundian in style with lush blueberry, boysenberry, crushed violets and a touch of vanilla. It is not a powerful bouquet but it seems to gain momentum with aeration, finding its own voice with each swirl of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with quite…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Montlandrie is powerful, densely constituted and full of character. Inky red/purplish fruit, cedar, spice, mocha and dried flowers are all laced together. Far from an easygoing wine, it packs a serious punch, and I expect it will age wonderfully. In 2020, the Montlandrie may very well be the hidden gem in the Durantou…