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The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Deep red with ruby highlights. Sexy aromas and flavors of primary dark berries, black raspberry and cocoa powder complicated by spicy oak tones. Thick yet lively on entry; a youthfully imploded but utterly seamless wine with outstanding energy and depth. For all its density, this tactile, saline wine shows a magically light touch. Really builds…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Medium red. Distinctly darker on the nose than the RSV, offering scents of blackberry, boysenberry, violet, smoky minerals and spicy oak. Sappy, saline, broad and classically dry; distinctly thicker and more backward than the RSV, with its soil character currently dominating its primary fruits. Superb volume here but rather uncompromising today; this wine will need…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Good dark red. At once darker, more restrained and less exotic on the nose than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, offering scents of dark cherry, menthol and minerals. Boasts terrific thickness of texture but this is much tighter today than the RSV and showing less obvious early sweetness; Charles van Canneyt noted that this wine was more accessible…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright, full red. Restrained but very pure perfume of dark raspberry, black cherry, menthol, licorice and black pepper. Dense, silky and suave on entry, conveying a sexy sweetness to its juicy dark fruit, mineral and spice flavors. This wine struck me as comparatively feminine in style, but not for long, as it quickly went into…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

Not surprisingly, the 2013 Volnay Clos des Ducs is the most tannic and reticent of these wines. I very much like the sense of energy here, but it’s going to take at least a few years for the contours to soften. The 2013 will always show the signatures of the late harvest and cold year,…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Healthy dark red. Highly complex but youthfully restrained nose offers scents of black fruits, violet, chocolate, menthol and minerals, along with some faintly liqueur-like high tones. Boasts outstanding density of texture, not to mention great lift and power for this bottling, with almost exotic fruit ripeness leavened by strong acidity. Finishes with spectacular lingering perfume…