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Montalcino: The Great 2015 Brunellos & More (Apr 2020)

Good deep red. Saline aromas and flavors of red cherry, blueberries, herbs, blood orange and sweet spices. Smooth and long on the bright, very sweet finish. Really quite good.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Haut Brion has long been a favourite vintage of mine and consumed with pleasure several times. Now at 20-years of age I feel it is one step ahead of the 1998 La Mission: there is great fruit intensity with almost precocious blackberry, raspberry coulis, pastilles, tobacco and hints of olive. It has exquisite…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Good medium ruby. Aristocratic, highly complex nose hints at plum, roast coffee, leather, grilled nuts, tobacco and earth. A bit reticent today but already offers an uncanny amalgamation of density and vinosity. A very suave, subtle wine that finishes with creamy, sweet tannins and terrific grip and length. Was there a more consistently outstanding first…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 1998 Haut-Brion is a vintage that has belatedly gained respect. It’s simply one of the First Growth’s best vintages since the 1989/1990. This bottle shows that it still deserves cellaring. With blackberry, crushed stone, tobacco and perhaps more floral/violet scents than I recall, it is an intense bouquet that does not hold back, yet…

A Birthday Dinner at Momofuku Ko, New York (May 2016)

A last minute addition to the lineup, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s 2005 Romanée Saint-Vivant opens with the most extraordinary, alluring bouquet imaginable. Silky, nuanced and super-polished on the palate, with exceptional purity, the 2005 simply soars out of the glass. The classic weightlessness of RSV comes through loud and clear. Bright saline notes give the…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Deep red-ruby. Multidimensional nose combines blackberry, violet and minerals with exotic spices, earth and underbrush. Then juicy and gripping in the mouth, combining outstanding density and a distinctly light touch. This, too, boasts superb energy and sappiness to its flavors of red fruits, spices and earth. Wonderfully complex already but youthfully tight, firmly structured and…