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Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is showing some strong new oak characteristics on the nose that occludes the red berry fruit behind, although thankfully it does gain clarity. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin, rustic in style with a slightly attenuated finish. Just a little style over substance perchance? Tasted blind at…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(from a single unfrosted parcel on the mid-slope on the Vosne-Romanée side, the yield was 35 hectoliters per hectare in 2016): Dark red with ruby highlights. The nose displays a rather cool aspect as well as some spicy oak to the aromas of black cherry, licorice and botanical herbs. Densely packed and very ripe but…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2004 Dom Pérignon P2 is precise and wonderfully refined, just like the first release. There’s a hint of reduction from extended time on the cork as well as a feeling of effusiveness that is so appealing. Readers will find a super-classic DP. Dried flowers, brioche, apricot preserves, sage, mint and chamomile are seamless in…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2004 Dom Pérignon P2 is now entering its first plateau of maturity, where the first notes of aromatic development are present. Hints of marzipan, lemon confit dried flowers, mint, spice and baked apple tart lend notable complexity throughout. Soft contours add to its open-knit, creamy personality.

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

1994 Mouton Rothschild: Sexy smoky, gingery oak, along with a hint of herbaceousness. Fruity and vinous, with good inner-mouth perfume, but the level of extract seems rather low for this wine. Finishes with slightly harsh tannins and some caramel oak. Lacks real precision and class. Not a strong performance for Mouton.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Langoa Barton is a wine that I have not tasted since just after bottling. It has a curious menthol tincture on the nose that lends it a slightly medicinal personality. Underneath lies pencil lead and autumn leaf scents, though there is sufficient fruit to back that up. The palate is medium-bodied with supple…