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Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(94% cabernet sauvignon, 5% merlot, and 1% cabernet franc and petit verdot; the selection for the grand vin was just 40% of total production) Opaque ruby-purple. Very intense, pure aromas of blackcurrant, cedar and graphite are complicated by hints of balsamic vinegar and licorice. Enters the mouth quite full, with the middle palate displaying rich…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Saturated ruby-red. Subdued but wonderfully pure nose hints at black cherry, graphite, tobacco, licorice, black olive and crushed stone. Lush, sweet and deep, with terrific energy and early sex appeal to the dark berry, spice and vanilla flavors. The sweetness builds on the very long aftertaste, where the solid tannins are in perfect harmony with…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 2008 Latour has a fragrant and floral bouquet with blueberry and blackberry fruit, violet and pressed iris petals, almost Margaux-like in style. The palate is medium-bodied with touches of brown spice on the entry. There’s a good definition here. Graphite notes appear toward a finish that tapers a little, giving away that it comes…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good red-ruby. Redcurrant, leather and game on the expressive if slightly rustic nose. Sweet and concentrated but a bit youthfully aggressive, and not showing the refinement or definition of the 2006. Strong nutty oak component. Finishes with substantial tannins that are a bit richer and more fully buffered by the wine’s middle-palate material than those…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Gruaud Larose, which was decanted for 30 minutes upon my request, replicated its performance a couple of years ago. This was the final vintage to include Malbec (1%). It has a very “useful” bouquet of blackberry, juniper berries and cedar that opens with vigour in the glass with satisfying intensity. The palate is…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

A wine of sublime elegance and finesse, the 2017 Cheval Blanc is endowed with tremendous energy, precision and cut. Red/purplish fruit, mint, sage, blood orange, star anise and exotic spice notes abound in a mid-weight, finely cut Cheval that dazzles with its energy. Technical Director Pierre-Olivier Clouet gave the 2017 26-27 days on skins. Because…