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2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Deep ruby. Complex, soil-driven aromas of redcurrant, dark cherry and raspberry are complicated by exotic notes of Oriental spices and soy sauce. Rich, tactile and sweet, offering intense, elegant dark fruit and spice flavors lifted by a saline nuance. Finishes with sweet tannins and lingering saline and smoky notes. This is deeper and fleshier than…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Haut-Brion has a really lovely, warm, autumnal nose with red fruit, chestnut, autumn leaves and Earl Grey scents. Very complex. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, a crisp line of acidity, maybe just a little austere on the finish, but there is fine focus with a delicately spiced, slightly medicinal finish….

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1988 Lafite-Rothschild is the best of the triumvirate that ended the decade. Another bottle vindicates that view. It shows an intense bouquet with graphite-tinged black fruit mixed with cedar aromatics that seem to effortlessly cruise as Lafite is wont to do. The palate is beautifully balanced and blossoms in the glass. The 1988 has…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

It has been several years since I last tasted the 1982 Cos d’Estournel. This has an elegant bouquet with refined red fruit, cedar and brown spices, with hints of aniseed and peppermint surfacing with aeration. It is not profoundly complex but it is difficult to resist its charms. The palate has a conspicuously ripe and…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Château Margaux, which comes in a quite stunning engraved bottle, has an equally stunning bouquet with blackberry, pencil box and light sous-bois scents, less minty than I noticed a few years ago. The palate has exquisite balance and poise, fresh red and black fruit commingling, curry leaf and light tobacco notes emerging toward…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Margaux is a compelling, arrestingly beautiful wine that expresses all the best qualities of the vintage. Dark, fleshy and richly textured, the 2015 nevertheless retains the super-classic Margaux sense of structure. Time in the glass brings out the wine’s rich, multi-faceted personality. I imagine the 2015 will enjoy a very long and uninterrupted…