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The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Moderately saturated medium red. Highly aromatic nose combines raspberry, strawberry, clove oil, dried flowers, smoked meat and pungent minerality. Silky, dense and fine-grained, with a high percentage of whole-cluster fermentation energizing the middle palate and giving this very complex Clos de la Roche lovely perfume and early sex appeal. But this is built for a…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Vieux Château Certan is every bit as magnificent from bottle as it was from barrel. Rich, sumptuous and explosive in the glass, the 2015 is pure class. The flavors are deep and boldly sketched in this sumptuous, spectacularly ripe Pomerol. Inky blue/purplish fruit, spice, lavender, licorice and menthol all develop in the glass,…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Vieux-Château-Certan can be highly variable from bottle to bottle. After two disappointing examples, this came out of the blue. It has an intense and powerful bouquet of black cherry, tobacco, brown spices and loamy aromas. This is very complex and compelling. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, firm tannins surrounded by plenty of…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Vieux Château Certan vindicates my assessment from just a few months ago. This bottle still shows traces of VA when contrasted against, say, La Conseillante or Hosanna. The palate has a sweet entry with candied orange peel and cough candy notes. This has light tannins and a keen line of acidity, though again,…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good medium ruby. Perfumed, very ripe aromas of blackberry, black cherry, licorice and violet. Sweet and dense on entry, then pliant and spicy in the middle, with good stuffing to the dark fruit flavors. Finishes with good cut and grip.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Full medium red. Deep aromas of dark cherry and nutty oak. Juicy, vinous and sweet, with nicely delineated flavors of cassis and cedar. This promising wine appears to be in the process of closing down in the bottle. Finishes with firm but sweet tannins and a lingering flavor of cassis. (My sample of the 2007…