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Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Very fine aromas of quinine, lemon, lime, minerals and gingery; lightly musky suggestion of yeast autolysis. Very intensely flavored and solidly structured but already quite accessible and open to inspection. Slightly aggressive finish shows excellent persistence. Doesn’t offer the complexity or grip of the best D.P. vintages, but this is ripe and delicious wine.

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(a blend of 60% merlot and 40% cabernet franc; cropped at 35 hectoliters per hectare; 50% selection for the grand vin): Bright red-ruby. High-pitched, slightly candied aromas of crushed red berries and plum lifted by whiffs of violet and cocoa. Then tightly wound, with juicy minerality and good energy to its spicy, exotic blackcurrant and…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Full medium ruby. Enticing aromas of black raspberry, lead pencil and cocoa powder. Rich, full, sweet and penetrating, with vibrant flavors of purple berries and bitter chocolate. Broad and full, but the wine’s harmonious acidity and floral element give it an impression of delicacy. Offers a lovely combination of fat middle and gripping aftertaste. I…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Cheval Blanc has a slightly more expressive and less feral bouquet compared to the 2000, perhaps better defined, although I miss the menthol aspect that develops on the previous vintage. But give it an hour’s aeration and it coheres magnificently, gaining more intensity as it manifests dark berry fruit mixed with potpourri. The…

Mâconnais 2016 and 2015: Dealing with the Elements (Nov 2017)

(bottled in August; done entirely in stainless steel; from vines that are 50 years old or more): Bright light-medium yellow. Very subtle scents of yellow fruits, menthol and minerals are fresh but quite tight. At once juicy and laid-back, conveying good density to its flavors of apple, pear and peach. Made from red clay soil…

Chablis Gets the Côte de Beaune Treatment from Mother Nature (Jul 2016)

Very pale lemon-green. Pure, discreet, thoroughly ripe aromas of lime confit, white flowers, wild herbs and crushed stone. Broad and ripe on the attack, but with a magically weightless impression and outstanding inner-mouth energy to the flavors of lime and orange zest, grapefruit, white flowers and minerals. Utterly seamless, densely packed Clos with great rising,…