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Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Réserve de la Comtesse has a pretty bouquet, not intense but well-defined, featuring blackberry, cedar and light graphite aromas. The palate is medium-bodied and quite saline in the mouth, with grippy tannins, good body and just a slight austerity on the finish. Not bad at all, though there is a considerable gap between…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Réserve de la Comtesse is a seriously great wine in its peer group. Or any peer group. Rich and layered, with no hard edges and compelling balance, the 2021 opens beautifully in the glass. Savory accents run through a core of black cherry and plum fruit, with hints of gravel, spice and leather…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

Another stellar wine, the 2004 Dom Pérignon is just starting to show the first signs of aromatic development, as well as a bit of added weight it did not have as a young wine. The 2004 remains a bright, mid-weight DP built on persistence and length more than overt volume. I have always had a…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

Vivid yellow. High-pitched, mineral-accented aromas of pear, Meyer lemon, quince and jasmine, with smoke and toasted grain qualities adding bass notes. Spicy, penetrating and pure, boasting impressive vivacity to its fresh orchard and citrus fruit flavors. Gains weight and breadth with air while maintaining vivacity, picking up a gingery nuance that carries through a long,…

Cellar Favorite: 2002 & 2004 Dom Pérignon (Dec 2022)

The 2004 Dom Pérignon is a totally different beast. It is the product of a very long and cool growing season marked by heavy summer rains in some sectors of the region and then ideal conditions through to harvest. After a brutally torrid 2003, the vines responded by setting a huge crop. In fact, 2004…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles 1er Cru is one of the lowest-producing vineyards, yielding just 20hl/ha due to the age of the vines and shallow soils. The very pure bouquet features ebullient red cherry and raspberry fruit and fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, and quite succulent, with a sorbet-like richness…