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Hungary’s 21st-Century Tokajis (Jun 2014)

Full orange-bronze. Pours thick. Distinctly old-style aromas of dried apricot, nut oil, molasses, hazelnut, smoke, toffee, walnut and truffle. Thick and hugely sweet, with powerful acidity and an orange marmalade quality enlivening the creamy, saline apricot, nut and earth flavors. Plenty of supersweet honeyed botrytis here. (An earlier bottle showed honeyed botrytis tones and huge…

Sonoma’s Sensational 2015s (Mar 2017)

Rose petal, plum, black pepper and blood orange are some of the signatures in the 2013 Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard. Bold and powerful in the glass, with plenty of cool-climate savoriness, the 2013 packs a real punch. Closing bursts of acidity and tannin suggest the 2013 will benefit from at least some cellaring. The 2013…

2016 Austrian Riesling & Grüner Veltliner (Oct 2018)

Penetrating scents of bruised apple skin and crushed apple seed, together with struck flint and a stiff marine breeze, set the tone for this entire performance. The firm but waxy palate displays pithy piquancy of apple seed and core, lime peel and green hazelnut. The finish is gripping, harboring a Grüner Veltliner-like undertone of artichoke…

New Releases from Chile: The Tail Wags the Dog (Feb 2017)

Inky ruby. Powerful, oak-kissed blackberry, cherry, violet and mocha scents, lent urgency by succulent herb and mineral nuances. Sappy and seamless on the palate, offering energetic bitter cherry and dark berry flavors that unfold slowly as the wine opens up. Less plush than its 2012 sibling but in no way lacking for depth or power….

Argentina New Releases: Cool Times in the Desert (Jul 2017)

(all four of these bottlings say 14.5% alcohol on the label): Bright, medium ruby-red. Lovely violet lift to the aromas of blackberry, licorice and tropical dark chocolate. Slightly port-like but fresh and fine-grained, with black cherry, menthol and herb flavors lifted by an herbal greenness. A distinctly blacker wine than the XI Grand Cabernet Franc…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(60% merlot, 30% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon, cropped at a reported 28 hectoliters per hectare; 14% alcohol) Deep, glass-staining inky-purple. Fresh aromas of blackberry and dark cherry complicated by ink and licorice nuances. Soft and rich in the mouth, with an almost unctuous texture to its black fruit, saline and floral flavors. Finishes…