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Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Léoville Las-Cases has a backward nose with the unenviable task of following the Léoville Poyferré. But there is complexity here, more tertiary in style, with autumn leaves and cigar smoke infusing the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannins, fleshy to the degree that it disguises the backbone. Mouthfilling on the…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

Readers will have to be patient with the 2014 Léoville-las-Cases, as it is not likely to show well for a number of years. Tightly wound but also medium-bodied and classic in its construction, the 2014 is going to need quite a bit of time to come together. Léoville-las-Cases is so often a wine of power,…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good red-ruby color. Superripe aromas of plum, mocha and graphite. Silky-sweet, deep and broad, with terrific concentration of currant and licorice flavors complicated by leather, herbs and pepper. Finishes with thoroughly ripe, broad tannins and noteworthy length and power. Costanzo says this wine needs another six months in bottle to gain in nuance.

2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

Reticent but pure aromas of peach and white flowers. Juicy, intense and precise, with a tight core of stone fruit and floral flavors and terrific stony cut for this cuvee In a distinctly delicate style for the year; impressively intense but not at all aggressive. This extremely suave wine will need extended cellaring.

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2005 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru came from an original bottle, i.e., not reconditioned at the Domaine due to premox problems. It has a rich and concentrated bouquet, with hints of wild honey intermixed with white flowers and broom. It shows a wonderful definition, a hint of candy floss emerging with aeration. The palate is very…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Inky purple-ruby. Very deep, rich, slightly roasted aromas of red cherry, truffle, cocoa and coffee. Then lighter and fresher on the palate, showing bright red berry, herbal and balsamic flavors. Finishes with substantial fine tannins and a liqueur-like creaminess of texture. This should offer early accessibility.