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Dom Pérignon in Three Acts (Nov 2017)

Like the 1969 P3 in this tasting, the 1971 Dom Pérignon P3 is dense, powerful and quite vinous in style. A huge, explosive Champagne with fruit that nearly covers the mousse, the 1971 has enough depth to drink well for another decade, maybe more. I have a slight preference for the Œnothèque (P2) in this…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(frost cut production by 30% in 2016): Pale yellow. The closest of these premier crus to exotic on the nose, offering scents of ripe peach, hazelnut and honey. Compellingly rich and sweet on the palate, but with its sucrosité leavened by a distinctly sappy quality. As dense and broad as this wine is, it also…

Vinous Table: Marea, New York, NY (Jul 2022)

Roederer’s 2002 Cristal, from magnum, is just off the charts. What else is there to say? The magnum format is so well-suited to Champagne. As opposed to still wines, which are just aged in glass, for Champagne, the secondary fermentation takes place in the glass. I am convinced that is a major part of what…

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2002 Cristal is now entering its first plateau of maturity, which makes it a terrific Champagne for drinking now. Hints of apricot, brioche, lemon confit, honey, hazelnut, baked apple tart and spice give the 2002 striking layers of nuance. Rich and generous, the 2002 show plenty of the natural opulence of the year and…

Cristal in Magnum: It’s Another World (Dec 2019)

The 2002 Cristal (magnum) is off the charts. In magnum, the 2002 shows a bit less of the opulence and richness it presents in bottle, which is not at all a bad thing for a vintage that has so much natural exuberance. Creamy and exquisitely layered in the glass, the 2002 is wonderfully expressive today,…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Light, bright gold with a steady bead. Orange, ripe pear, red berries and white flowers on the nose, with complementary notes of lemon, honey, sweet butter and smoky minerals. Ripe citrus and orchard fruit flavors are braced by gentle minerality, picking up subtle baking spice and buttered toast notes with air. Surprisingly generous at this…