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2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

The 2011 Clos de La Roche is one of the more intensely mineral of the Dujac Grand Crus. Tobacco, herbs, fried flowers, rosewater, blood orange and crushed rocks are some of the many aromas and flavors that are alive in the glass. Intense, chalky tannins round out the expressive, perfumed finish. There is a lot…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Good dark red. Musky, peppery aromas of red cherry, rose petal and underbrush. Silky, rich and fine-grained, with ineffable flavors of red berries, cherry, peppery herbs and spices spreading out to saturate the palate without leaving any impression of weight. Wonderfully suave, energetic wine with outstanding complexity and finishing breadth. This wine was going through…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Purple-ruby. Opulent, sexy aromas of plum and black cherry explode from the glass, with complicating spicy/herbal nuances of bay leaf, marjoram, cinnamon and aromatic pepper. Very fresh on entry, with a sweet, supple texture and flavors similar to the aromas. Finishes vibrant and very persistent, with an intriguing balsamic quality and firm, building tannins. This…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Deep purple-ruby. Knockout nose of black cherry, minerals, coffee liqueur and violet offers uncommon depth and complexity. The flavors of blackberry, black plum and minerals are complicated by a note of iron and given wonderful clarity and cut by harmonious, vibrant acidity. Finishes very long and pure, with distinctive balsamic nuances. There’s lots of sweet…

New Zealand’s Pellucid Wines: More Light Than Heat (May 2016)

(these vines, now averaging at least 15 years of age, are starting to reach maturity; Cloudy Bay has reduced its use of yeasts that produce a lot of thiols and esters, according to Operation Manager Daniel Sorrell; 10% oak is used to add texture): Bright, pale yellow. Lovely penetrating aromas and flavors of pineapple, grapefruit,…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Beauséjour Becot has a fleshy, meaty bouquet that feels more open and mature than its peers in this flight, touches of oxtail and iron filings emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, well judged acidity, quite cohesive with an attractive, iron-tinged silky finish that feels long and delineated. This is…