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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Medium-deep red. Plum, currant, mocha and brown spices on the nose. Lush and sweet, with moderate density and harmonious acidity. Perhaps a bit livelier in the mouth than on the nose. Not nearly as ripe on the back end as the ’98, but has sneaky finishing flavor.

Central Tuscany 2003 and 2004: A Tale of Two Vintages
 (June 2007)

The 2004 Sassicaia is a lovely, understated effort. Medium in body, it presents nuanced layers of sweet dark fruit, licorice, menthol and toasted oak that gradually open onto a finely-knit frame of notable length. Today it appears to be quite reticent and still holding back much of its potential. Both bottles I sampled showed less…

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru has a concentrated nose delineated by hints of pressed white flowers, Vervain tea and crushed stone, with just a bit of reduction. These aromatics are backward at this stage, but they show great potential. The palate is quite sharp on the entry, with a twist of sour lemon…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1977 Taylor’s Vintage Port is initially tight and conservative on the nose: strawberry, baked cherry, tobacco and wild hedgerow notes emerging but remaining tight-lipped. This needs a good decant! The palate is endowed with depth and concentration, very well balanced with an attractive crispness. Perhaps you could argue that it is a linear and…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Bright straw-green. Deep aromas of white peach, minerals and perfumed flowers on the enticing nose. Then deep and minerally on the palate too, with minty herbs complementing the rich peach and pear flavors. Finishes with lingering notes of passion fruit and green banana and saliva-inducing lemony minerality. I have always loved this wine’s steely personality,…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2017 Ducru-Beaucaillou appears to have gained a little opulence since I last tasted it, just after bottling. Here it is armed with precocious blackberries, bilberry, violet petals and potpourri. Wonderful definition. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte, saturated tannins, superb intensity yet a Ducru-Beaucaillou with linearity and strictness. It is elevated by a saline…