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2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good medium red. Very ripe but fresh aromas of red fruits, menthol, coffee and licorice. Silky on entry, then solid in the middle and stuffed with redcurrant, black raspberry and dark chocolate flavors complicated by leather and spices. This seriously structured, complex 2009 shows little in the way of easy sweetness today and will need…

The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)

The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Clos des Porrets St. Georges comes across as silky, perfumed and quite pretty in this vintage. There is an early approachability to the wine that makes it an excellent choice for drinking over the near and mid-term. Gregoire Gouges told me he didn’t think the wine would shut down in…

South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2018 Granite Chenin Blanc comes from 42-year-old vines on the Paarderberg. The bouquet offers lime, orange zest and honeysuckle on the nose, plus a touch of watermelon in the background. The palate is very well balanced with a crisp line of acidity, and quite saline in the mouth. It tightens up on the finish,…

Making the Case for New Zealand Reds (Mar 2021)

An impressive wine with a firm and powerful structure. While it has an elegant core, the overall impression is dark and brooding, with masses of gravelly tannin holding it all together, making for a wine that begs for bottle age. A lengthy finish offers classic, pepper spice, violets and fresh blackberries that fill the mouth…

New Zealand: Just For Starters (Nov 2018)

The 2016 Le Sol has a refined, pure bouquet with lifted blackberry, raspberry and violet aromas that burst from the glass (such a relief after the disappointing Te Muna). The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannin and nicely judged acidity, quite backward and a little surly towards the finish, but there is balance and poise…

Some Great Reward: South Africa (Aug 2018)

The 2016 Schist Syrah Roundstone has a more feminine, nuanced bouquet than the 2015, with darker berry fruit and white pepper and clove emerging with time. The focused palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin. The 100% whole bunches lend real mineralité and je ne sais quoi on the finish. This is one of the most…