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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1997 Lafite-Rothschild is certainly one of the better First Growths of this somewhat maligned vintage. Gravel, pencil shavings and light tobacco notes furnish the mature nose that is open-knit and perhaps missing some vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins, balanced and conveying some of Lafite’s elegance, yet it does taper quickly on…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good deep red color. Complex aromas of black cherry, currant, chocolate, herbs, licorice and tobacco leaf. Fairly sweet and dense on the palate, with very good concentration and firm acidity for the year. This is aged in 100% new oak, but the wood is very much in the background. Finishes very long and subtle,…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru was showing a little more reduction than the Les Combottes, though not much, allowing black fruit laced with crushed stone and iris flower to emerge with aeration. The palate is beautifully defined with succulent, vibrant red and black fruit, hints of blood orange and a subtle irony tincture…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru clearly has more intensity than the Chambertin. True, it is showing a little more wood at the moment, but I also find more fruit – raspberry and wild strawberry – interlaced with shavings of black truffle and forest fern. The palate is medium-bodied with supple but firm tannins. This…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru has a very intense, brilliantly-defined bouquet with laser-like precision, incredibly focused and perfectly integrated oak. Less generous than Bichot’s Chambertin at the moment though – this is biding its time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, insistent grip and plenty of freshness. Maybe just a little more confit…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet of intense red fruit, undergrowth, cedar and orange blossom aromas. The medium-bodied palate is lithe and deep, delivering fine tannins, red berry fruit and great tension and depth on the finish. This is an immense Chambertin, one where winemaker Cyrielle Rousseau has managed to impart a…