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2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

Hard candy, sweet red berries, cinnamon and mint are all seamless and beautifully integrated in the 2012 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses. With time in the glass, the flavors become a bit darker and richer, with red and purple tones that gain focus. Today, the Amoureuses comes across as a bit raw and not fully formed, but…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

(25% whole clusters): Bright medium red. Deep but reticent aromas of wild red berries, red cherry, cocoa powder and mint. Sweet and plush on entry, then savory and perfumed in the middle, with slightly high-toned raspberry and spice flavors lifted by notes of crushed stone, red licorice and flowers. Boasts considerable volume and density but…

Vinous Table: Côte, Guildford, UK (Mar 2023)

The 2013 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru from Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard is a bottle earmarked for my vintage overview next year, but here was a chance to examine it over time. Intense on the nose, it has razor-sharp delineation and impressive focus, with scents of honeysuckle, lime, crushed stone and blood orange, completely delivering what you expect from…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Deeper-pitched on the nose than the Bienvenue, offering musky, slightly reduced scents of very ripe peach and grilled nuts. Sweet, large-scaled and powerful but youthfully laid-back today. More tannic than the Bienvenue but the firm finishing flavors of pear and minerals titillate the retronasal passage. Still a baby.

2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

Bright, light yellow. Very reticent, nuanced nose combines pineapple, peach, menthol and stony iodiney minerality. Densely packed, chewy and mineral-driven; distinctly more classic than the Criots, with very sound acidity but little early sweetness. The tactile, stony, layered, very long finish reminded me of a Montrachet.

The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

Brght, deep red. Very pure, vibrant aromas of black cherry, dark berries and fresh herbs. Surprisingly pliant and round for young Clos Vougeot, with saline and spice notes adding interest to the black cherry and licorice flavors. Offers lovely restrained sweetness and balance. Finishes supple and long, with firm but ripe tannins and very good…