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Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Grand Puy-Lacoste is quintessential Pauillac on the nose, showing more secondary development compared to the last bottle tasted five years back. Blackberry, wild hedgerow, black tea and cloves appear first, followed later by subtle minty aromas, all well defined, intense and classic in style. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and a…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright medium ruby-red. Exotic black fruits and spices on the nose, with notes of chocolate, smoke and game; showing its 29% merlot component today. Rich, broad and chocolatey; sweet, creamy and superripe. A big, mouthfilling vintage for this chateau, combining a classic Pauillac medicinal character with the chocolatey ripeness of the vintage. Thick but nicely…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright ruby-red. Profound nose melds raspberry, black cherry, mocha and minerals. Wonderfully silky and spherical, with monumental solidity and yet incredible inner-mouth perfume. This builds and builds toward the back, finishing with big but suave tannins and extraordinary minerally length. One of the two or three greatest wines I tasted on my spring trip to…

Long and Winding Road: Ausone 1912–1999 (Mar 2018)

The 2000 Ausone was tasted on no less than three occasions during March 2015, once with Pauline and Alain Vauthier. It is a great millennial Saint-Émilion with intense blackberry and cassis fruit laced with cedar and violets. Less opulent than it showed in its youth, it is a perfect marriage of Merlot and Cabernet Franc….

Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 1966 Palmer is probably justifiably eclipsed by the legendary 1961, but this is one of the greats. Several bottles tasted, the last at the Palmer vertical in London. Introverted black fruit commingles with sous-bois and autumn leaves, though there is more vigor compared to the 1970. Lovely delineation. The palate is medium-bodied, and like…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Vivid deep ruby. Knockout fruity nose offers blackcurrant, strawberry, rosemary, truffle and a stony note. Then very closed in the middle, with cabernet sauvignon-dominated flavors of cassis, cigar box, cedar and minerals. Finishes long and deep, with massive but smooth tannins and a lingering note of violet. This will need plenty of time in the…