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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright ruby-red. Liqueur-like aromas of kirsch, blueberry, truffle and dark chocolate. Sweet, chewy and impressively concentrated, with terrific grip. But this extremely young and powerful Trotanoy is still a bit disjointed today, presenting liqueur-like southern flavors as well as a medicinal component. Finishes long and firm, with terrific grip. Not quite as stylish as the…

2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2019 Barolo Paiagallo is a gorgeous wine from Giovanni Canonica. Kirsch, orange peel, cinnamon, cedar and new leather take on an exotic quality in a deep Barolo that marries a super-ripe profile with classic structure. The 2019 is a bit wild. Candied fruit lends a racy quality, but the tannins are decidedly forbidding. With…

2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2018 Barolo Paiagallo is laced with kirsch, sweet spice, new leather, menthol and rose petal. Exotic and super-ripe, the 2018 shows all the warmth of the year in its sweet fruit and pronounced alcohol, but avoids the angular contours that afflict so many wines. Even with all of that richness, the 2018 retains a…

2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges (Oct 2023)

The 2022 Riesling Scharzhofberger Kabinett has a very open but tender nose: ripe greengage is bright and edged with a whisper of chervil. The sweetness on the palate kicks in first, but lightness takes over with serene lemon freshness and fine, almost earthy stone. Ripe greengage, delineated by lemon, soaks up that initial sugar and…

2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges (Oct 2023)

The 2022 Riesling Scharzhof was harvested in Saarburg, Wiltingen and Oberemmel and fermented spontaneously, half in stainless steel, half in Fuder. The nose has subtle yeast notes but comes across as very fresh, with hints of green apple and lemon and a slightly flinty flicker. The palate is exquisitely light and gently sweet. Herbal notions…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru includes three-quarters whole cluster fruit. It has a beautifully-defined bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, wilted rose petals, incredibly precise and focused. The palate has an unerring symmetry, a fine bead of acidity, precise and crisp, the whole bunch seamlessly integrated with an assiduous sprinkling of…