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Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1996 Mouton-Rothschild is the high point of what in retrospect was an inconsistent decade for this First Growth. It has a very attractive, classic Pauillac bouquet: predominantly black fruit laced with cedar, freshly rolled tobacco and light graphite scents. It is not lavish, but tightly controlled. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, though…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Good bright ruby. Aromas of dark berries, truffle and game. Sweet and rather lush but a bit monolithic, even musclebound. Finishes with substantial tongue-dusting tannins and a repeating animal quality.

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby. Pungent spices, black fruits, minerals, roasted nuts and coffee on the nose. Smooth and thick but solidly structured; faint animal notes in the mouth. Nicely integrated acids and tannins. A vin de garde yet the tannins seem less tough than normal, spreading out nicely on the aftertaste.

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Bright deep ruby. Vinous, complex aromas of cassis, roasted plum, spice, licorice, roast coffee, game and grilled bread. Voluminous yet currently rather inexpressive in the mouth; this has a depth and texture not shown in either the ’97 or ’98. Distinct notes of torrefaction in the mouth. Finishes very long, with well-buffered, ripe tannins.

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Saturated inky-ruby. Classy aromas of blackcurrant and graphite are lifted by Oriental spices and plum liqueur. Sweet, dense and consistent from start to finish, with enticing, creamy flavors of dark berries and chocolate. Finishes long and pure, with a solid tannic bite but with so much sweet, ripe fruit that you hardly notice. Pontet-Canet has…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

A meeting by chance with the 2008 Pontet-Canet prior to a small tasting of South African wines reminded me what a lovely wine this is. There is plenty of black fruit on the nose laced with graphite. The cedar component is less prominent than the previous bottled tasting. The palate is medium-bodied, a little drier…