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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(46% merlot, 40% cabernet sauvignon and 14% cabernet franc; a 57% selection; 14.3% alcohol) Saturated bright ruby. The deep, brooding nose is quite marked by the cabernet franc presence, opening slowly with air to offer sexy, soil-driven aromas of violet, raspberry, mocha, minerals and sweet spices. Then rich and sweet in the mouth but with…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Brion has a powerful bouquet with ample blackberry, hoisin, crushed stone and cedar aromas, quite warm and welcoming but retaining satisfying delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, but it seems to tighten towards the fresh and persistent finish. Impressive but unequivocally not the best example. 14.3%…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

Six years have passed since I last tasted the 2005 Pavie. In that time, the wine has moved into its first plateau of maturity. Heady and explosive, the 2005 possesses tremendous richness right out of the gate. An infusion of inky dark fruit, chocolate, leather, spice, menthol and espresso greets the palate as the 2005…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Saturated, deep ruby-red. Knockout nose combines blackberry, minerals, crushed rock, truffle, vanillin oak and flowers; showing none of the porty quality of the sample I tried last year. A hugely concentrated essence of a wine, offering an incredible combination of sweetness, vibrancy and precision of fruit, thanks to strong acidity and powerful underlying minerality. The…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(73% cabernet sauvignon and 27% merlot) Saturated ruby-purple. Delicate aromas of blueberry and cedar are complicated by hints of graphite and tobacco. Delicate on the palate as well, with pretty black currant and cedar flavors. This wonderfully balanced midweight offers sneaky concentration and great precision to its classic, cabernet-dominated flavors, not to mention a long,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Duhart-Milon has always been an impressive wine. Here it has a very intense, backward, graphite and cedar-scented bouquet that just seems to grow in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, crisp acidity, brisk blackberry and raspberry fruit laced with graphite and tobacco notes towards the austere finish. I keep…