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Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(90% cabernet sauvignon with 10% merlot; 3.62 pH; 95% new oak; 14% alcohol) Deep ruby-red. Lovely perfume of raspberry, blackcurrant and gunflint, made more complex by vanilla and sexy spices. Dense, sweet and rich, with a fine-grained texture to the flavors of cassis and exotic dried herbs. Huge, powerful, solidly structured wine with a firm…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2010 Ducru-Beaucaillou, picked 29 September to 14 October, was matured in 100% new oak for 18 months. This is more backward, sultry compared to the 2009, but there is a payload of black fruit laced with violet and cedar, a very faint ash scent emerging with time. The palate is full-bodied with powerful black…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Ducru-Beaucaillou has a seriously fine bouquet with plenty of black fruit, cedar and hints of camphor that blossom from the glass. So much vigour and intensity here, yet it remains beautifully delineated and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain, supple tannins. There is a fine bead of acidity, fresh and focused,…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Medium red-ruby. Sexy, ripe aromas of black- and redcurrant, cedar and minerals, lifted by a subtle minty note; an essence of perfumed Saint-Julien cabernet sauvignon. Then rich, deep and incredibly vibrant, displaying major dimensions for Ducru as well as a dense kernel of complex, delineated blackcurrant, red cherry, milk chocolate, cedar and fresh herb flavor….

2003 Vintage Ports (Jan 2006)

Good saturated ruby. Raw, brooding nose dominated by crushed dark berries. Then dense, sweet, superripe and powerful, if a bit high in alcohol and unrefined. A big boy, with a strong chocolatey flavor and considerable finishing sweetness. This may well merit an outstanding rating with 15 years or so of cellaring. But I would not…

Cellar Favorites: 1996 & 1985 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (Feb 2016)

What a treat it is to taste these two Pichon Lalandes straight from the chateau’s cellar. The 1996 Pichon Lalande is stratospheric from the very first taste. The deep, layered bouquet alone is deeply transfixing. Smoke, mocha, dark spices, lavender, crème de cassis, a host of dark-fleshed fruits and a touch of warm, resonant sweetness from the…