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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Tertre Rôteboeuf has fine delineation on the nose with raspberry, blackberry and Seville orange marmalade, a hint of peppermint emerging with time. A little Grenache-like maybe? The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy, ripe red fruit laced with mint, maybe a little drying towards the finish and lacking the complexity of the aromatics? As…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Climens feels a little muted on the nose and lacks the vigor and complexity of the 2010 Coutet that happened to be tasted blind alongside. The palate is nicely balanced but it feels very muted at the moment and needs more tension on the finish. There is a sense of elegance here, but…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2010 Climens has just been a bit variable bottle-to-bottle. This was a transitional Climens as biodynamics was being introduced. Again, I find this a little subdued at the moment, perhaps going through a sulky adolescent stage. The palate is well balanced with a menthol-tinged entry, fine depth and acidity, more expressive towards the finish…

Pierre, Denis & Jean-Jacques: Doisy-Daëne & L’Extravagance 1942-2013 (Jan 2022)

The last time I tasted the 2009 Doisy-Daëne, I felt it was in a dumb phase. This bottle suggests that it is no longer in that phase! It has a lovely bouquet with honey, white peach, nougat and light marzipan scents, growing in intensity with just a touch of lavender. Wonderful definition. The palate is…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Rieussec is deeper in color than its peers, though this did come from a half-bottle. The bouquet features marmalade, peach and mango scents, though I aver that it does not deliver the mineralité of other, dare I say, more successful vintages. The palate is much better, offering harmonious honeyed fruit, marmalade, orange peel,…

Focus on Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2004)

Pale yellow-gold. Superripe nose dominated by honey and marzipan. Hugely ripe and deep, with compelling layers and depth of fruit. Superconcentrated, exotic flavors of apricot, minerals and coconut. Wonderfully chewy, thick and sweet, and extremely long on the aftertaste. A huge wine that will impress early but will really need a minimum of a decade…