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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Léoville–Las Cases, which was picked at 35.5hl/ha and matured in 90% new oak, still shows the exuberant floral bouquet that I remarked upon from barrel, featuring violets and (less so) lavender scents that complement the multilayered black fruit. On initial pouring, after a 60 minute decant, it blossoms and evolves greater delineation and…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Inky ruby. Smoke- and mineral-accented black and blue fruits, violet, licorice and an olive nuance on the deeply perfumed nose. Stains the palate with intense cherry, blueberry and fruitcake flavors that are sharpened by a spicy touch of cracked pepper. Youthfully chewy tannins frame an impressively long, penetrating finish that leaves candied dark berry and…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Dark violet color. Fragrant, spice-tinged blackberry, cherry, smoky bacon and olive aromas take on a floral nuance with aeration. Sappy and focused on the palate, offering intense dark fruit preserves, espresso, cracked pepper and floral pastille flavors that are energized by a hint of smoky minerality. Closes with repeating floral and spice notes, gently gripping…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Volnay Clos de la Barre 1er Cru demonstrates more finesse and coherence compared to the Santenots, offering pure dark cherry and boysenberry fruit mixed with light violet aromas. The lush, generous palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a silky-smooth texture and layers of black cherry and cassis toward the seductive finish. Just very……

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

Powerful, dense and tightly wound, the 2006 Dom Pérignon is fabulous today. To be sure, the 2006 is a broad, virile Champagne, but I find it compelling because of its phenolic depth and overall intensity. Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy adds that August was quite cold and wet, and that ripening only happened at the…

Champagnes Salon & Delamotte 1959-2007 (Jun 2016)

One of the surprises in this vertical, the 1997 Salon is super-polished, delicate and refined. The 1997 offers lovely detail and nuance throughout. Hints of candied lemon peel, white flowers and white pepper add an element of brightness that complements the wine’s natural richness. Although 1997 doesn’t belong to the group of elite vintages at…