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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good deep red-ruby. Sweet, highly expressive aromas of redcurrant, hot stones, roasted plum, woodsmoke and tobacco. Fuller and more textured in the middle palate, with a chewy, tactile mouth feel that suggests strong extract and a wonderfully pliant texture. A firm mineral underpinning and sound acids frame the fruit. Expansive and seductively sweet in…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière is tightly-wound on the nose with blackberry, raspberry, hints of singed leather and spice. I appreciate the delineation here. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, a fine bead of acidity, chalky in texture with a grip and certainly impressive focus on the finish. This is…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(the crop level here was off by one-third, as this vineyard is on the Chambolle side of Morey-Saint-Denis, where frost was a factor): Healthy deep red. Musky, ripe aromas of dark raspberry, bitter chocolate and licorice. Supple and pliant on the palate, showing lovely texture and sweetness for this cuvée; more relaxed than the village…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright dark red. Open-knit aromas of raspberry, brown spices and chocolate. Densely packed and velvety for the vintage and for the cru, with red berry, brown spice and iron flavors complemented by a salty quality. This rich, rather pliant 2014 finishes with excellent length and smooth tannins. While it should offer considerable early appeal, it…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has a lot of volatility on the nose that masks the terroir. It seems to address that with aeration, albeit remaining feisty. The palate is sweet and candid with “squishy” red fruit that lacks definition, the finish blurred and in want of more freshness. Hard-going on the dense…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru is extremely well defined on the nose of intense blackberry and raspberry fruit, crushed rock and light wilted iris flower. The palate is medium-bodied with a bold structure, a Les Cras with huge dimension and a firm grip at this early stage. Wonderful salinity here, and it fans…