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2015 Brunello: The Vintage We Have Been Waiting For? (Apr 2020)

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino from Casanova di Neru is very pretty, showing bright cherry and strawberry tones, as red florals and dusty spices that rise up from the glass, with just a hint of forest floor. On the palate, silky textures give way to red berry fruits and sweet spices, given lift through vibrant…

Montalcino: The Great 2015 Brunellos & More (Apr 2020)

Good deep red. Saline aromas and flavors of red cherry, blueberries, herbs, blood orange and sweet spices. Smooth and long on the bright, very sweet finish. Really quite good.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Haut Brion has long been a favourite vintage of mine and consumed with pleasure several times. Now at 20-years of age I feel it is one step ahead of the 1998 La Mission: there is great fruit intensity with almost precocious blackberry, raspberry coulis, pastilles, tobacco and hints of olive. It has exquisite…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Good medium ruby. Aristocratic, highly complex nose hints at plum, roast coffee, leather, grilled nuts, tobacco and earth. A bit reticent today but already offers an uncanny amalgamation of density and vinosity. A very suave, subtle wine that finishes with creamy, sweet tannins and terrific grip and length. Was there a more consistently outstanding first…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 1998 Haut-Brion is a vintage that has belatedly gained respect. It’s simply one of the First Growth’s best vintages since the 1989/1990. This bottle shows that it still deserves cellaring. With blackberry, crushed stone, tobacco and perhaps more floral/violet scents than I recall, it is an intense bouquet that does not hold back, yet…

A Birthday Dinner at Momofuku Ko, New York (May 2016)

A last minute addition to the lineup, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s 2005 Romanée Saint-Vivant opens with the most extraordinary, alluring bouquet imaginable. Silky, nuanced and super-polished on the palate, with exceptional purity, the 2005 simply soars out of the glass. The classic weightlessness of RSV comes through loud and clear. Bright saline notes give the…