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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full red-ruby. Roasted plum, currant, tobacco and minerals on the nose. Compellingly dense and thick but almost miraculously lively and light on its feet. Has a texture like liquid velvet, coating the entire palate. Wonderfully unmanipulated wine, with perfectly integrated acids giving it superb subtle vinosity and thrust. Finishes with outstanding building persistence, with the…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(a blend of 60% merlot and 40% cabernet franc; cropped at 35 hectoliters per hectare; 50% selection for the grand vin): Bright red-ruby. High-pitched, slightly candied aromas of crushed red berries and plum lifted by whiffs of violet and cocoa. Then tightly wound, with juicy minerality and good energy to its spicy, exotic blackcurrant and…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Full medium ruby. Enticing aromas of black raspberry, lead pencil and cocoa powder. Rich, full, sweet and penetrating, with vibrant flavors of purple berries and bitter chocolate. Broad and full, but the wine’s harmonious acidity and floral element give it an impression of delicacy. Offers a lovely combination of fat middle and gripping aftertaste. I…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Cheval Blanc has a slightly more expressive and less feral bouquet compared to the 2000, perhaps better defined, although I miss the menthol aspect that develops on the previous vintage. But give it an hour’s aeration and it coheres magnificently, gaining more intensity as it manifests dark berry fruit mixed with potpourri. The…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

As expected, the 2001 Figeac in large format is much more backward than numerous encounters in bottle. The initial red fruits (cranberry and raspberry) are soon usurped by black fruit mixed with truffle and incense, with light gravelly scents in the background. Wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with very expressive Cabernets, dried blood and…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Figeac is slightly deeper in color compared to the 2000. It has a brighter nose of black and red fruit intermingling with pencil lead and black truffle shavings, plus a very light menthol note in the background. The sensual palate is smooth on the entry and more plush and pliant than the 2000….